The sketch
With Daniela Baumgartner, the story of a jewel always begins with a sketch. This is the very first step; that of imagination taking form. An idea, a desire, a sketch seeking a precious reality; an aspiring jewel…
Selecting gemstones
Selecting gemstones requires the trained eye and professional knowledge of a specialist: the diamond cutter (for diamonds) and the lapidary (for other fine or precious stones). Gemstone selection involves diverse criteria; flawlessness, structure (determines cut), depth, brilliance and colour.
Cutting
This most delicate operation reveals the inner beauty of the gemstone. Prior to shaping, a gemstone must be examined in great detail, from every angle with a magnifier. Only by discovering the secrets of its structure can we reveal its inner fire and unleash its true colours.
Wax
Use of wax allows a three-dimensional model of the jewel to be made. It is then that the designer can completely master volume, correct a curve, outline or form of a ring. The wax model serves as a reference to creating the jewel.
Casting
A metal cast is made from a wax model of the jewel. Metal can then be poured into the hollow mould and a small scale production of the jewel be carried out. Once out of the mold, the jewel is “cleaned” and all remaining traces of the process are removed.
Laminating
A rolling mill is a mechanical tool which laminates or finely flattens metal to a desired thickness. A thick plate of gold can thus be transformed or “stretched” into a gossamer thin sheet. The rolling mill also produces metal wire of almost any diameter.
Shaping
Le façonnage d’un bijou passe par différentes techniques suivant le résultat souhaité : le martelage permet d’obtenir la forme du bijou. La ciselure de « sculpter » le métal pour parvenir à des détails d’une grande finesse.
Setting
Shaping a jewel may involve varied techniques, according to results desired: hammering, for example, shapes a jewel. Engraving or chasing techniques “sculpt” a metal, achieving very fine and subtle detail
Polishing
Crucial, polishing is the ultimate stage in the finishing process of a jewel; the final glimmer enhancing a precious metal. A jewel can be “brightly” polished, making it perfectly smooth and shiny; brushed or “satin” finished, therefore matt; or on the other hand, perfectly silky smooth and capable of altering the very nuance of a metal.
